危険で美しいスポーツサーフィン、アドレナリン中毒者の為のサーフィン、遠い目で彼らたちを見てみました。
One of the extreme sports – surfing, risky but beautiful sport. A perfect sport for adrenaline addicts. I must say that when I’m on a beach and there are big waves (so big that lifeguards don’t allow you to go into the sea, but after a while they let you to enjoy in jumping into the waves) I like to jump into the big waves and let them carry me all the way to the shore, but when I repeat it couple of times, I start to realize the great and uncontrollable energy of that water. So, I only can imagine what are these guys dealing with, and the amount of adrenaline in their blood when they finally ‘beat’ the waves.
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